Island Peak, Lobuche, Kyajo Ri are all trekking peaks of Nepal. This blog about the technicalities you can face on these peaks and what you can do to prepare for climbing one.
After a recent trip to Nepal I had a client climbing Lobuche and just near the summit she said under exhausted breath “trekking peak my arse”. This comment got me thinking that she really wasn’t expecting these technicalities and that many people embarking onto similar trips probably find themselves in a similar situation. What does the description trekking peak mean to you?
When we entered Island Base Camp we bumped into another team who were heading down the mountain after turning back on Summit day. They had managed to get up to the beginning of the steep section but had found it too hard.
As I was ascending island peak I was surprised at the level of incline to reach the summit. Fixed ropes are in place to use for the last 100 metres of the climb and the gradient relates to a grade 2 Scottish winter route. At 6000m this can be a real challenge for participants and if you have not prepared for this type of technical terrain than you may find yourself turning around early.
On Kyajo Ri the fixed lines where so steep that clients had to use two arms to heave themselves up the rope using an ascender. This can be exhausting work when not accustomed to climbing on steep technical ground. Here is a few ideas to help you to move more efficiently over this terrain...
Practice closer to home
Get your mountain boots on and explore some of the great scrambling routes the UK mountains have to offer. Not only will this give you a great day out but you will build specific fitness and get accustomed to stepping on small holds with clumpy boots on. There is now a great range of scrambling guide books available for all abilities.
Climbing even at an indoor wall will improve footwork placements, upper body strength and mental resilience.
Winter skills course
Get some practice in with those crampons before departing for the mountain. Plan a trip to Scotland or the Lakes and hone in those climbing skills. Even a skill as simple as taking crampons off and on with big gloves while on the mountain could increase your confidence when taking the final steps towards your summit.
Hope the information helps you with your adventure